To celebrate the week of Earth Day, we explore Sepilok, a centre in Malaysian Borneo where orphaned and injured orangutans are rescued and cared for.

My first encounter with an orangutan was a magical one. I was in Singapore Zoo, where free ranging orang utans are kept. It was the hottest time of the day, humid as hell, the sky was grey and thick with clouds. A downpour was on its way. Most visitors had retreated to the zoo’s restaurants and cafés, but I didn’t want to miss the chance of wandering around on my own. Suddenly, I heard leaves rustle just above my head. I raised my eyes and saw an orangutan, wrapped around a wire between two trees.

He looked at me, I looked back. He had such lovely, inquisitive eyes. The forlorn look of an old man, the curiosity of a little kid. He had a touch of shyness about him. We shared a look for a while, and then I raised my hand and waved at him. He waved back, then disappeared.

Sepilok Orangutan Tripod

Surveying from above

Travelling around South East Asia, orangutan news are on every other newspaper. Baby orangs killed by poachers. Orangs rescued from homes in inhumane conditions. I once shivered reading about a young orangutan addicted to alcohol and cigarettes that was kept as a pet by an elderly Indonesian man. I even saw orangutans for sale with my own eyes, in the darkest recesses of Bangkok Chatuchak Market.

Orangutans once inhabited the whole of Borneo. Agnes Keith, in her book Land Below the Wind, talks of orangutans visiting her garden. After the palm oil boom in the Sixties, much of Borneo has been logged to make room for palm oil plantations. About 80 per cent of orangutan habitat has been destroyed; numbers have decreased from several hundred thousand to just over 40 thousand. National Geographic has estimated they may be extinct by 2023.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, located 25 kilometers out of Sandakan, opened in 1964. Resident orangutans were orphaned and rescued after their mothers had been killed by poachers. Some were found injured in the forest, others again were rescued from homes where they were kept illegally.

Sepilok Orangutan Pole

Hiding from the photographers

Orangutans are kept at Sepilok until they are healthy and have developed the skills to live independently. The centre sits in the middle of 43 km2 of protected forest; a large enough area for orangs to live comfortably. Many orangutans, especially those who arrived as babies, spend most of their lives around Sepilok, even after they have been released.

Sepilok Orangutan Leg Grab

Throwing shapes

It is not possible to visit the centre where the injured orangs are kept. However, you can see orangutans every day, at 10 and 3 pm, at the feeding platform. At this stage, orangutans are free, so there’s no guarantee they will actually turn up. It is very hard not to have a sighting, we were told.

The feeding platform sits at the end of a boardwalk, ten minutes or so from the reception area. We visited in the afternoon; at about 3.30, the platform was packed with dozens of visitors, anxiously scanning the leaves above for a glimpse of orange-brown fur.

Sepilok Orangutan Teeth

The old guy

After a little while, we heard a ‘thump’. The ropes between the trees and the feeding platform wobbled, and the first orangutan appeared. He was an older individual, his fur so dark it looked almost maroon. He moved slowly but carefully, measuring his steps. He stopped in front of a fruit basket, and picked a banana.

The, he started to peel it. The same movements I make every day. Snap the top. Peel, one, two, three strips. Bite.

I knew orang utan is Malay for ‘men of the forest’. I knew they share 98 per cent of their genes with us. But it was there, looking at an orangutan eating a banana, that I realised how similar they are to us.

Sepilok Orangutan Stare

You talking to me?

With the realisation, came the anger. I was angry with my fellow men, who day after day fell century-old forest to chase the quick buck of palm oil, driving orangutans into the last remaining patches of forest. Loss of habitat is the first reason for their dwindling numbers; if nothing is done, they may indeed disappear very soon.

Sepilok Orangutan Sitting

The young guy

Another orangutan appeared shortly afterwards. He was smaller and scruffier-looking, a bit like a teenager. By then, no one said a word. Dozens of eyes scanned their movements, as they ate one fruit after another. Then, just as suddenly as they appeared, they left. I stood in my tracks for a second, trying to take in what I had just witnessed. A moment that is now one of my most precious memories.

Sepilok Vermin and Lice

Friends of the orangutans

Practical Information about Sepilok 

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is located in a forested area 25 kilometers out of Sandakan, in the Malaysian state of Sabah. The centre is open Saturday to Thursday 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 4pm; Friday 9am to 11am and 2pm to 4pm. Feeding times are 10am and 3 pm daily. Tickets costs RM 30 plus RM 10 for camera permit.

 

 

38 Responses

  1. Jen

    It is incredibly sad that the Rehabilitation Center needs to exist because of the cruelty of man, but I’m glad these orphaned orangutans get a second chance at life. I hope companies start being more responsible about the palm oil that they source and the forests still exist for these amazing animals. Let’s hope the 2023 prediction is very far off!
    Jen recently posted…One Room Challenge {Living Room} Week 3My Profile

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    • Margherita

      Hey Jen, true, let’s hope the future for orangutans will be brighter. Still, the work rehabilitation centres are doing is really fantastic.

      Reply
    • Margherita

      It was indeed. one of our favourites so far! Thanks for your comment Emily!

      Reply
    • Margherita

      It was amazing. We love orangutans! Don’t miss visiting them in Borneo if you get a chance!

      Reply
  2. Harriet

    Ah love it! What amazing photos, and what a privilege to have been able to spend time with these amazing creatures. So jealous! 🙂 x

    Reply
  3. Daidri | Thee Getaway Gal

    This is why I love blogging so much, someone else sharing such a memorable experience with others who may never get to experience it for themselves. I loved hearing your thoughts and the pictures are fantastic, I felt like I was right there with you. It’s always sad to think of any animal becoming extinct no matter the reason.
    Daidri | Thee Getaway Gal recently posted…Venice: Rialto Market Photo EssayMy Profile

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  4. Stacey

    They’re such wonderful animals, aren’t they!? I had to smile when I read how you’d waved at one and he waved back. The Sepilok Sanctuary is one I wish I’d known about earlier… Id been looking for organisations with a wildlife focus to do an international internship with earlier this yeah. Oh well, these things happen. Likely they wouldn’t have been able to take me anyway.
    Stacey recently posted…It’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey … REALLY!?My Profile

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    • Margherita

      It was really a fantastic day, and I didn’t realise how much the experience had touched me for a long time. Sometimes, when you write you travel for the second time!

      Reply
  5. Bianca @itsallbee

    Great pictures! I love all the little captions under the pictures. Its a shame these animals are mistreated. Whenever I travel I make an effort not to contribute money to any street performers with animals as this makes me feel as if I am contributing to the prolonged suffering of the animal.
    Bianca @itsallbee recently posted…48 Hours in Milan | Visual DiaryMy Profile

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  6. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    Great photos and a fantastic write up. I cannot imagine seeing orangutans for sale at a market. That’s so very sad. I would have wanted to rescue them all, but of course, what would I actually do with them once I bought them? I visited a similar orangutan rescue centre on the other side of Borneo in Sarawak. It was also a very memorable experience for me. (Your photos are much better than mine.)
    Michele {Malaysian Meanders} recently posted…Kids Cooking School in PenangMy Profile

    Reply
    • Margherita

      Thanks for your comment guys, glad you liked the pics! It’s an amazing place, isn’t it!

      Reply
  7. Mary {The World Is A Book}

    I loved seeing all the orangutans you featured here with the cutest captions. I have heard of this rehab centre and despite its origin and reason of existence, it may also inspire people to be aware of the orangutans’ plight. I didn’t know about the Malay word for ‘men of the forest’. Very interesting! What a great experience for you.
    Mary {The World Is A Book} recently posted…Visiting Where Time Begins in Greenwich EnglandMy Profile

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    • Margherita

      Thanks Mary. I’m glad you liked the post. It was a wonderful experience!

      Reply
  8. Dennis Kopp

    You are definitely right Margherita, orangutans are really incredible creatures. I was fortunate enough to see them in Bukit Lawang on Sumatra and they too have a feeding platform for these semi-wild apes. We even saw some wild ones further in the jungle and I was simply fascinated by the way they looked and moved about. This really was an unforgettable experience for me and I can only hope that the estimates of National Geographic will turn out untrue…
    Dennis Kopp recently posted…Exploring Bali’s Landscapes by ScooterMy Profile

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    • Margherita

      Hey Dennis! I would love to visit the Sumatran cousins, I have heard lots of good things about the place. Thanks for your comment!

      Reply
  9. Margherita

    Thank you for your nice words John. Glad you loved my posts, hope I won’t disappoint you in the future!

    Reply
  10. Margherita

    It’s such a lovely place, and the work they’re doing is amazing. Thanks for your comment!

    Reply

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