Following our Simple Guide to Italian Trains, here’s another guide on how to navigate the incredibly confusing world of Indian trains.
So, you’ve made it to India. Your first trip, congrats! You have overcome culture shock on your arrival and spent some days/weeks at your city of arrival, be it Delhi, Calcutta, Mumbai or other. Now it’s time to move on. What to do? Fall for a tout’s sweet talk and book an expensive car and driver? No. Follow said tout to a travel agency where you’ll be charged a commission twice the price of the bus/train ticket itself? No.
Trains are the best way to travel around India, especially if you’re on a budget. I mean, I might be biased as I always love trains, but I’m pretty sure most people will agree with me on that one.
Indian trains are cheap and reliable (sort of), and the railway network covers the whole country, from Kargil to Kanyakumari. Once you get the hang of it, the Indian train system is not too hard to navigate. Here is where we teach you how to do it by yourself.
How to choose a train
There are a myriad of classes on Indian trains. Not a simple first/second like in most places. Turn up at a booking office without a clear idea of classes, and you’re likely to leave with a headache and no ticket.
Here’s an overview of classes. Most classes will be present on all long-distance trains; sometimes only unreserved, sleeper and AC3 are available.
1) Sleeper Class
This was our class of choice. Three tiers of sleeper bunks in an open carriage, that during the day are converted into seats, plus two tiers on the other side of the corridor, parallel to the window. For us, it was a good compromise between the local flavour of unreserved and our need for a little bit of comfort (read: you have a place to lie on, after all).
Top Tip: Choose the top bunk if you don’t fancy being woken up at 7am because your bunk needs to be converted into a seat. Avoid the two-tier bunks next to the windows if you’re taller average, as they are much shorter.
2) Second Class-Unreserved
The only class for which reservation is not necessary. Think your stereotypical image of an overcrowded train, with people hanging off the sides. Of course, it’s the cheapest, and as a result only the poorest or those who haven’t been able to secure a reservation would choose it. I’ve never been on one, so I can’t really say much else. Feedback is really appreciated.
3) AC 3-tier
Three tier sleepers in compartments of 6, with air-conditioning. Usually about one and a half the price of sleeper class. The class of choice of most travellers with a budget that isn’t rock-bottom.
4) AC 2-tier
Two tier sleepers in compartments of 4, with air-conditioning. Of course, less crowded and more comfortable.
5) AC 1-tier
Air-conditioned compartments with 2 or 4 bunks, bedding and washbasin. This is the most comfortable (and expensive!) class, your travelling companions will likely be other westerners or wealthy Indians.
6) First Class Non AC
Pretty much the same as the class above, but with no aircon, and about half the price. A great deal if you can find it, as it’s not available on all trains.
How to book
Now you know what you want, how can you get your ticket? The simplest way is booking online via the IRCTC website, you just need to register and then use the Plan my Travel section. The printed reservation slip is your ticket.
But what to do if you haven’t got access to the internet and/or no credit card? Head to the reservation office, which sometimes is in the station itself, sometimes just outside in a separate building. In big cities, such as Delhi and Mumbai, there’s a separate office for foreigners called International Tourist Bureau.
Making your way to the office is the first challenge. Resist the offers of touts who will try leading you to their travel agencies claiming it’s the ‘official reservation office’, or that ‘all tickets are sold out’ or such rubbish. Just say no and be polite, but firm.
Once you get to the office and fight your way through the crowd, grab a reservation form and fill it in with the details of the train you want. You’ll need a copy of your passport too. Then, hand those rupees over and – voila – you get your ticket.
If tickets are sold out, there’s a magic word to make some appear: Taktal. It’s an emergency quota released 72 hours before departure, at an extra cost. We took over 20 overnight trains during the four months we spent in India, and only had to resort to taktal twice. The taktal charge for sleeper class ranges between 90 and 175 rupees.
If taktal is not available, you can try waiting list. You are asked to pay for your ticket in advance, and turn up at departure time. If a seat has become available, it’s yours. Otherwise, you get a full refund. Never tried it though.
How to survive
Travelling on Indian trains is a great experience. You have the view, as the trains travel through some areas you’d be unlikely to visit by yourself. You have your travel companions, who are generally interested and sometimes even fascinated by foreigners. I travelled with hijras and snake charmers, with babas and IT geniuses.
Train travel in India is paradise for a street food junkie like me. Vendors board trains at stations, selling regional specialties. I remember a delicious peanut brittle in rural Maharashtra I was never able to find anywhere else.
And if it all gets a bit too much? That’s where having the top bunk is a great choice. Climb down and swap jokes with your fellow passengers, climb back up and do what you please. Seat back, and enjoy the ride!
Oh wow that sounds like more of an adventure that a trip to India! Great info though- it looks like a tricky process!
It is an adventure indeed, but an amazing one! Hope the guide helps if you ever decide to take the train in India!
I love traveling by train too – you get to see so much more of the country! I’m still quite amazed by how many different types of tickets there are available in India. It looks a little hard to get the hang of at first if you’re just used to first and second class.
Hey Jessica! You’re totally right, it’s kind of confusing at first, hope I helped making things clear! Thanks for your comment!
I’m trying to convince some friends to go to India with me next year on a girl’s trip, and I have to say I am actually looking forward to the trains. As a fellow street food junkie, I’m even more excited after reading this. Fantastic tips, I’ve bookmarked it for when I head to India!
Thanks for your comment Katie! You’ll love India, I’m sure! Looking forward to reading about your experience!
Being born and grown up in India for a good 25 years, I’ve always enjoyed and look forward for travelling in Indian trains. I’ve travelled in all the classes you’ve mentioned! Sometimes it depends on how comfortable you are to be on a completely crowded bogie. It could be one of the most memorable, or turn out to be the worst travel experience. Your guide is simple and very informative, which I am sure will help other travellers to experience Indian Railways. It is definitely the best way to see India, and experience it’s culture.
Hey Anu! I’m so happy you thought it was a useful guide. I love Indian trains and I think so many people are intimidated by them, I want to convince everyone it’s the best way to tour the country!
These tips are so great! If I ever make it to India I will most certainly reference this article (which I am getting ready to pin. 🙂 ) It is so helpful to read things like this! Also, I didn’t even think about India being a street food paradise! I’m going to have to look into that! 🙂 -Alexandra
Simply Alexandra: My Favorite Things
Thanks Alexandra! India is amazing in so many ways, you should really go there!
Wow, I thought some of the Eurpoean ticket classes were hard to figure out! I guess it’s nice to have a variety of options, though! Thanks for the tips!
Thanks Amy! I’m glad it’s helpful!
Wow! I didn’t even realise there are different classes on train in India – As you said, when I think of trains in India, I picture hundreds of people cramped in, hanging off the sides and sitting on the roof! Great article, I think If I ever went on one, I would want to hang off the side hahaha
Hey Paul! The ones with people hanging off are the suburban trains, I went on one in Mumbai, it was crazy! And you know why… because people hung off the sides, but the train was empty!
Wonderful guide for anyone who is planning on taking a train in India. I would definitely need this if I ever go over there, the types of compartments are very nicely broken down. Thanks Margherita!
Thanks Samantha! Glad you find it useful!
Fascinating! I’ve always heard that you haven’t REALLY traveled yet until you experience the train in India. I am totally up for this!
Thanks Alli! It’s an amazing experience, you should go!
I still have not been to India yet but this is great info for when I do travel there as its a great way to move around the cities and watch that travel budget.
Hey Bianca! Train travel (especially sleeper) definitely helps with the budget! Thanks for your comment!
As an Indian, I’d most highly recommend AC 3- or 2- tier. 1st class is creepy (for me) because someone pointed out that I may just get stuck in a cabin with three creepy ass people. Unreserved is insane. I took it ONCE in my life (Rs 57, about 1 USD, for a 5-6 hour journey. I THOUGHT it was a wonderful bargain, but it was that day I understood the meaning of ‘You get what you pay for’).
I have always wanted to visit India and hope that we will be heading that way for a big trip in the next couple of years – planning will be epic!!! I would love to travel on trains but my travel companion has always had a certain image in his mind when it comes to Indian train travel so I am going to wave this article under his nose to try and convince him that this is still an experience we need to undertake! 🙂
hey Tam! Planning is not that hard, really… just buy that plane ticket and go with the flow! I’m sure your partner will agree that it’s an amazing experience!
Hey Muriel! Hope you do get to visit India and travel around by train one day. it’s a great experience! Thanks for your comment!
Hey Jen! If you’re a train lover you’ll love India! Hope you get to go one day!
Great and useful article! Although we usually hitchhike, when we finally get to India I would like to have a ride on the famous Indian trains and see what they’re really like 🙂
Thanks! I would love to read about hitchhiking in India, but I’m sure you’ll love the trains!