My last post from Sicily, after my love letter to Ragusa Ibla and a night spent in a masseria in the Sicilian countryside. This time, I returned to a masseria, for the best ever cooking class in Sicily. And a little trip down memory lane.

PS. You can also have a go at cooking with nonna in Rome, or enjoy Sicilian street food in Palermo!

le chiuse di guadagna artichokes

Artichokes at Le Chiuse di Guadagna, near Scicli in Sicily

A Sicilian Awakening

I woke with birdsong. Light streamed into my room from the window; I stayed in bed for a while, drifting between sleep and consciousness, so close to dreams I could touch them, smell them.

The birdsong got louder. One bird sang, a magnetic tweet, followed by others, sharp and crystalline, like raindrops on water. I walked out of my room, into the Sicilian countryside. A bird mama was feeding her babies. She had nested under the eaves of the roof; the babies were barely visible, but boy, could you hear them.

She flurried back and forth, carrying tiny worms and placing them in the mouths of the little birds, again and again.

It was March 8th, 2015. Mother’s Day.

le chiuse di guadagna carob tree relax

Relaxing in the Sicilian Countryside

The other guests in the farmhouse were still asleep. I could see the owners preparing breakfast, placing trays of fresh fruit and warm ricotta on a heavy wooden table. The sun was shining warm – it was probably going to be over 30, despite still being spring.

I walked around the farmhouse for a while. The sun made the white buildings shine. The countryside was basking in the early morning sun, and the sea shimmered at the horizon. Everything around me exuded warmth. I touched the warm soil, ran it through my fingers. The flowers were in bloom; they were orange, pink and red, as big as a fist. The plants in the herb garden floated their scent through the air.

Mamma Sicilia

Sicily is maternal. It is warm and comforting like an embrace, it can be difficult, it can be tough, but it’s a place where you can find refuge, once everything gets too much.

cooking class in sicily cat

A sweet Sicilian cat

That trip, from the very first instant when I landed at Catania airport and saw Mother Etna, hovering particoloured in the morning sky, I felt at peace. For this island used to be home. I was at peace wandering around Ragusa Ibla, a place that is a piece of my heart. I was at peace when we spent a night in the heart of the Sicilian countryside, making cheese and listening to war stories. 

The Best Cooking Class in Sicily

But in that place, Le Chiuse di Guadagna, I wasn’t just at peace. I felt I was with family. 

Le Chiuse di Guadagna is a family business, Luca’s dream. He moved to Milan to study and work, but the longing of that farmhouse where he spent his childhood was too strong to ignore.

le chiuse di guadagna artichokes sicily

Artichoke planted by Luca’s grandfather at the farmhouse

Helped by his family he lovingly restored it, pulling weeds and sanding doors and fixtures, wall after wall, brick after brick, until Le Chiuse became a haven of peace between sea and countryside. When we visited, Luca was working his notice in Milan, and his parents were running the show in his stead.

I was at Le Chiuse for a cooking class; something I love doing, but I rarely get to. We gathered in the breakfast room, along the long, heavy wooden table, where the ingredients were neatly displaces. Mounds of juicy almonds, lemon peel and sugar for biancomangiare, our dessert. We followed the instructions unstoppable Pina, a former teacher now pastry artist and cake designer.

sicily cooking class biancomangiare ingredients

Biancomangiare ingredients

We crushed almonds in a mortar and pestle, then cooked them on the stove with milk with infused lemon peel. When the peel ran out, we picked lemons straight off the tree, leaving our fingers scented with lemon essence. Finally, we set the biancomangiare in dainty ceramic moulds that had been in the family for a century.

sicily cooking class biancomangiare

Making almond milk for biancomangiare

But the real work had not even begun. We were going to make scacce, a kind of filled bread, specialty of Ragusa and its province. The afternoon rolled into the evening as Pina showed us how to make dough, working it and kneading it with our hands.

cooking class in sicily making dough

Pina’s hands, making scacce dough

My Sicilian Memories

Meanwhile, memories rolled into my mind, memories of fifteen years before, so close and vivid I could smell them. My boyfriend’s mother and aunties making scacce for Christmas, kneading dough on a long, heavy wooden table.

The dough was left to rise, then it was rolled out into a circular shape. Pina was inflexible, pointing out imperfections like a stern teacher from last century. Her pastry was as perfect as Giotto’s circle, mine was knobby and uneven, sometimes square, sometimes oval.

cooking class sicily Pina

Pina, our amazing teacher

Then, fillings were brought out. Cipuddata, a pot full of sweet, heartwarming tomato sauce with onions, as nourishing as the summer sun that made the tomatoes ripe and juicy. Chunks of sharp, salty ragusano, sweating ever so slightly in the warmth of the evening. Bunches of parsley, plump anchovies, warm and silky ricotta, the kind you only find in Sicily.

Then, peppery local sausage, and my own very favorite, capuliato. Crushed sun dried tomatoes kept in a jar with a tiny bit of oil and basil – the sight, the smell, even the thought of it are able to transport me back fifteen years, to the sun-baked streets of my boyfriend’s village, with tomatoes laid out to dry on wooden crates.

cooking class sicily group

The group around the table

Those tomatoes, minced into capuliato, would be his lifeline, his connection back to the Mother Island during the long months of the northern winter. He would spread it on bread, use it as a seasoning for pasta, but only ever sparingly. 

Scacce, then and now

Pina showed us how to mix fillings – and even then, mistakes or creative licenses were not a possibility. Ricotta and sausage, cheese and tomato, sometimes with slices of grilled aubergines with mint. Pina spread the fillings on the pastry then rolled it into a long, rectangular shape.

Parsley would go with anchovies, dotted with gems of capuliato, and folded into a half-moon shape.

The arc of Pina’s eyebrows reminded me of my boyfriend’s mother. Her sharp black eyes were just like those of my boyfriend’s auntie Concetta. And just like then, during those long nights in the lead-up to Christmas, when women started baking in the afternoon of December 23rd, I stole morsels of sausage and chunks of cheese, slid an anchovy in my mouth and ate spoonfuls of capuliato from the jar. Pina saw me, but said nothing.

scacce sicilian food

Finally, the scacce – Photo Credits Gente in Viaggio

The evening had turned into night, lit by the sickle of the moon and bejeweled with stars. It was gone eleven when we finally sat at the table to eat our scacce and biancomangiare.

And just like during those Sicilian Christmases from the turn of the century, the first scaccia I had was a tomato, cheese and aubergine one.

The following morning I was woken by birdsong. A thin cry, like a blade of grass floating in the wind. A bird had fallen from the nest and lied limp and bald on the floor, under the eaves. I stood still, unsure of what to do, unsure of whether it was alive or dead.

I thought of calling someone, but a man came, stepladder under his arm. Placed the tiny bird back into the nest. It started tweeting again – a little louder, this time.

Many thanks to Alessio from Gente in Viaggio and Stefania and Serena from Sicilying, who invited me on this trip. All opinions are my own – and the memories were priceless.

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10 Responses

  1. zoe

    I just found your blog the other day, and I’m really enjoying reading through the archives of your adventures! Especially the Italy ones – you write about the place so well 🙂

    • Margherita

      Thank you so much Zoe. It’s comments like this that make all the hard work worth it! Have you been to Italy?

  2. Ellen @ The Cynical Sailor

    I love the pictures of the artichokes. We used to grow them in our garden – such a delicious vegie. Your cooking course looks like it was wonderfully delicious.

    • Margherita

      It was worth it Rhonda! The hard work made it more delicious yummmmm

  3. Sarah Hoang

    I love your photos, your story and your experiences. It’s very wonderful. I really like the food. It looks so delicious.